Seoul
In 1999, a flight from Los Angeles to Seoul, Korea cost $586 round trip, which is considerably better than the $1300 it had climbed to just 3 years ago. The plane took us to Kimpo Airport, in Seoul Korea. The airport is actually on the outside of this very large and congested city. So a car or taxi can take up to an hour or so to make it to any hotel you might have reserved in the heart of Seoul (which is where you want to be). In many many cases, we have found that it is best for non-Koreans to take the train/ subway whenever possible to avoid the 'price difference' in taxi fares (between Koreans and non...you can get normal price, which is the meter on, but it can take ALOT of shopping and haggling.). See traveling at the end of this summary to get details on traveling in Korea. The best international district in Seoul is Itaewon. International is important for tourists who are looking for good shopping and nightlife. See our section on people for details. In Itaewon, you can get anywhere from 5 star hotels (Hyatt) on down. There are very nice hotels and services for $70 (Crown Hotel) and basic hotel accomodations for $20 (but we mean, basic). In fact, if you are on a budget, this $20 hotel is not a bad idea. Located in the heart of Itaewon Nightlife ("the hill") they consist of a King size bed, a little moving space, and a bathroom. Most of the beds are sheeted with one heavy quilt, and sometimes include sheets. Heating (crucial in the winter months) comes from the floors. In Itaewon, you are very close (walking distance) from one of the largest U.S. Army installations, Yongsan. The main post has a number of clubs where you can eat and have a few beers. The Post Exchange is no different than any Walmart in the States. There is a bus station on base, where you can book tickets for trips to any other military installation on the penninsula. Upstairs, there is an internet cafe. The south gate will take you to The Dragon Hill Lodge, a 5 star luxury hotel, complete with 5 restaurants, a gym, sauna, and a bar called Bentleys (great place o begin your night). The base has all the usual accomodations and amenities, so if you have an active or reserve ID card, you would be wise to take advantage.
Shopping:
In Seoul, you will find descent shopping in Itaewon or Myeong-dong, a very famous market. Itaewon and Namdaemun markets are best for buying custom made suits, jackets, boots, etc. The shops in Itaewon-dong are off one main street, but go way back down the hill into a labyrinth of little stores. It is a place to find deals mostly on leathers and other clothing items. Myeong-dong is like a Korean version of Outlet stores. Here you will find namebrand stores like Gap, Luis Vitton, Versace, Levys, etc. The prices are higher, but still a bargain for name brand items.
In Songtan, you will find a wider variety of nicer stores in a very clean neighborhood. Almost as if it were a theme park, the streets are shutoff to traffic as people walk from store to store, intermingled with bars. We found this to be the best place for good prices on excellent craftsmanship for suits and other custom clothing. You can literaly point to an item in GQ magazine that you want, have them take measurements, and they can have the exact replica of that item ready for you a couple of days later. Tongduchon, up north has a down scale (oriented more for transient military personnel) shopping center, in which you can also find good prices and a few good tailors (we recommend Boston Tailor, if they are still in business).
eMART: There is an extensive electronics market district in Seoul. You could spend an entire day there shopping for anything from video games, to stereos, to computers, all at great prices.
Sightseeing:
1. War Museum Because of the turbulent
and long history of Korea, and its connection
with the United States, you should see the
War Museum. It spans the history of wars,
and you'll see some grotesque weaponry
used by the warriors of milleniums ago, as
well as Korean War artifacts and history.
2. There are countless other Temples and other fascinating museums and sights to see. If you have time and want to see what is in whatever city you decide to go, here is a very useful website we recommend: click here
Dongdaemun: Great East Gate
Changdeok Palace
Changdeyong Palace
Olympic Park
Namsan Park
Han River Park
Seoul Tower
Nak dong River Battle museum
Cheju Culture and Art Center: Cheju Do
Sinsan Park, Cheju Do
Hamdaek Beach, Cheju Do
Cheju Folk Village
Coastal Highway, Cheju Do
Cheju Port
Nightlife:
Korea has very distinct nightlife locations. For interantional travelers that wish to mingle, have a great time, and stay up throughout the entire night dancing, drinking, and anything else, we suggest Itaewon, in Seoul. |Most other places throughout Korea are either purely military, or (more likely) purel Korean. That is not to say you will not have a good time. But the Koreans are still generally very homogeneic people, and in some places do not mix to well with foreigners.
Itaewon
Geckos: is a great place to start the evening. Here you will see, among other nationalities, a good mix of Americans, Canadians, Germans, and Australians. Sit and have a beer, or play darts or pool.
Stomper is the place to be after 1am. It never closes, but will be empty until about 1230am. Music is anywhere from 80s dance, to country, techno, or whatever gets requested.
Polly's Kettle: is a small bar, but you can get cheap drinks and big 'kettles' of Soju, a dangerous liquor staple of Korea.
Hollywood: Across the street from the "Hill" is Hollywood, on the thrid floor. It has a very international techno crowd and also is open almost all night long.
Grand Old Oprey: This country bar is the place to be if you are American and miss you country. At 12am, everybody gathers to sing "Proud to be an American" before heading off to the next bar on the hill.
These places will change names, close down, or re-locate. But the bottom line is, you can't lose on "the Hill". It is for heavy partyers who are out all night long. Single guys will have a great time. Surprisingly, this place, along with Korea in general, seemed to be absolutley safe (in terms of crime) for women traveling at whatever time of day or night.
There are other places, like Toquery, near Tongduchon, Songton, and more. But we think your nightlife is best spent in Seoul and in Itaewon. We also recommend the Hard Rock Cafe in the center of town.
Cheju Do
Cheju Do is a smal island to the south of the Korean penninsula. Airfares are reasonable and the flight is about an hour long.We flew there in late February, a very unpopular season for tourists to go to this beach island vacation for Koreans. The weather is still considerably chilly, as is the water. Although, in mid-summer Cheju Do is almost shoulder to shoulder with people, At the airport, we hired a car (about $60 a day) and drove to our reserved room. Being military, we reserved rooms at the Army's luxury resort for $25 a day. However, one can find descent hotel rates when planned enough in advance. For a hotel site in Cheju Do click here. Checked into our hotel,
we toured the island, driving the coastal highway and
across the island inland. We visited the famous
botanical garden, the waterfall, Folk Village, Cheju Port,
Hamdaek Beach and Sinsan Park. At the port, we took a
cruise around the harbor and saw how the island was
surrounded by small rock-islands, littered with natural
caverns. Cheju Do is a great get-away, especially if you are in Korea during the summer (you can enjoy the warm beaches) and have a few extra days. If you are traveling other countries, be advised, there are better places to go than Cheju Do. But definitely consider it if staying solely in Korea.
We loved the restaurants,
the beaches, and the peace
and quiet. Although, be
advised that the island is
very crowded in the heat of
summer and a very popular
honeymoon vacation for Korean couples.
DMZ:
If possible, we highly recommend a visit to the DMZ.
Understand the gravity of the North -South Korean
situation and see a border that divides a country
still at war. The DMZ, or demilitarized zone is a
boundary, a few kilometers thick across the 38th
parallel, which divides the 2 countries.
On the southern side of its boundaries,
there is the JSA, which is frequently visited
by military personnel for it's museum and
peak at the vast barren land across into
the boundary.
Other
Other destinations recommended in Korea included Chunchon,
a lake resort hidden in the mountains northeast of Seoul.
It is often called Korea's best kept secret. Nearby, is an
Army base, Camp Page. In Chunchon, you can water ski,
play golf, or go out fishing on the lake. It is a peaceful
quiet place that couples might enjoy most.
Throughout Korea, you can find ski resorts,
golf resorts, and national parks. The
Koreans love a Sunday drive and a
walk in the park.
FOOD:
Kimchi Fried Rice: Fried rice, pork, onions, garlic
Bibim bap: zucchini, eggs, roots, spices, over noodles.
Kimchi Stew: Kimchi is a fermented cabbage, much like a Korean version of Sauerkraut.
Salted Fish (Jeotgal) : fermented fish clams and fish eggs served as appetizers and side dishes.
Rice Cakes (Tteok ) : Steaming rice flour in a rice cake steamer.
Soup (Guk,Tang): meat seaweed, fish, clams.
For another more descriptive Korean menu, click here.
Travel
There are many modes of public transportation available in Korea. The cheapest and surest means is the rail/ subway system. It is really very easy one you try it. Although the route schedules anddestinations are written in the Korean lettering, Hongul, they are also written in English. At many of the stops, an audio voice will also speak aloud each destination in English. The price is the cheapest we've seen, literally pennies. Be advised though, if you are on a train and the light all come on and a very loud voice sounds out in Korean, the next stop is probably the last one for that particular train, which will then be routed to maintenance. If you see everyone getting off the train, we advise you do the same. The subways and trains can go anywhere in Korea you could ever want to go. Traffic in Seoul and other large cities can be horrendous.
You may also choose to ride in a taxi. Many times, you will not have a problem. Other times, the taxi driver will want a fee up front and will not turn on the meter. By law, he is required to use the taxi's meter (the price this way will always be lower than what he will ask). If they will not use the meter, do not take the taxi. there are plenty of taxis available that you can keep moving until you find a driver who is "on the level". Either way, the taxi will take you to where you want to go, and at times it is the quickest way.
If you feel comfortable enough with public transportation, you can try the busses. For this, you will need exact change Won and you will need to read and know the number of the bus and where it will go. Bus stop signs have the number listings of the busses that will arrive at that particular stop.
People
As we stated before, the Koreans are very homogenous people. They will be courteous and at times will come up and talk to you to try out their English. But you may find many who shy away from talking to Americans, caucasians, etc. On one occasion, I was completely lost (first time traveling on my own) and needed directions from someone. Every Korean woman I approached for help ran away, afraid to try and communicate.
The younger Koreans are much more communicative, especially in the university areas.
Koreans, especially older, have some customs that we may not understand. As we have customs they do not. For example, calling a Korean, "Hey you" and using your finger for them to come over, is an insult. They are sensitive to jestures that appear "as if you're talking to a dog." Do not show the palm of your hand while pointing or calling someone over.
In addition, it is natural to see Korean men spitting in public and all Koreans cramming, aggressively, into a subway car. These are cultural norms. The Koreans are nice, there are still many who are fascinated by western ways, and they love their Kimchee. Quiet, early hours of the morning in Seoul are disrupted by businessmen departing all-nighter bars, clubs, and Kareoke clubs stumbling on their way home.
